When you think of denim, you think of cotton. A world of rugged charm, where hardness and fading are appreciated—a wool company challenged this common perception. "MAF WOOL DENIM" by Nikke Textile is an unprecedented denim woven from 100% wool.
"MAF"—A Mark of Quality Embedded in the Name
MAF stands for Merino Authentic Fine, a high-quality material brand boasted by NIKKE, meaning "truly good Merino wool." The product brand name "MAF WOOL DENIM" was chosen because it is denim made from wool using this high-quality material.
Material Development Began in 1988 as an International Project with New Zealand
The development of the MAF material itself began in 1988 as an international project between NIKKE and the New Zealand government. At that time, New Zealand did not produce fine-count wool suitable for clothing, so it became a large-scale project that started with breeding sheep for improved varieties. While MAF has primarily been marketed as a material for suits, NIKKE began manufacturing and selling wool denim products in 2023.
A Group of Experts Who Love Wool
NIKKE is a group of experts who love wool. They have carefully selected raw wool and have worked alongside craftsmen with extensive knowledge in yarn and fabric production. To share the benefits of wool with more people, they continue to challenge themselves by not only providing fabrics but also proposing finished sewn products.
Bishu, One of the World's Three Great Wool Producing Regions
Spinning, dyeing, and weaving in Bishu
Ichinomiya City in Aichi Prefecture, where our base is located, is also known as "Bishu." It is renowned as one of the world's three great wool producing regions, alongside Huddersfield in the UK and Biella in Italy. Blessed with abundant soft water from the Kiso River and a mild climate, it is a region with high technical expertise where a series of processes from yarn to fabric, such as spinning, dyeing, and weaving, can be carried out within the area.
Wool Products Account for Only a Few Percent
Behind the creation of this product lies a realization. It is the fact that among the clothing products available in the market, only a few percent are made from wool, with synthetic fiber products dominating the majority. The desire to make more people aware of the unique qualities of natural materials—the tactile comfort and environmental considerations—is at the root of this product development.
The Mission of "Casualizing Wool"
As fashion becomes more casual, NIKKE has primarily focused on heavier garments such as suits. They then considered what they could offer in the casual sphere and launched the "Wool Casualization Mission." Their attention turned to "denim," which is widely recognized as a Japanese product.
More Elegance for Denim
Denim is generally understood to be made of cotton, which is also its origin. Its ruggedness, including its stiffness and fading, has been valued as a niche appeal for enthusiasts. However, we questioned if it could be expressed with more elegance and create different values.This wool denim was born from that very question.
The Concept of "Everlasting Beauty"
Everlastingly Beautiful MAF WOOL DENIM
The concept of MAF WOOL DENIM is "everlasting beauty." This encompasses the visual beauty, indeed, its elegance, and the graceful feeling experienced when worn. It also aims for the wearer to embody inner beauty. All of these aspirations are poured into its creation.
We Want to Broaden Your Styling Options
What we want to deliver through this product is the opportunity to broaden your styling options. We believe that this wool denim can be perfectly suitable even for occasions, including business, where a slightly dressier feel is required.
Craftsmanship Focused on the Essence
What we value in craftsmanship is to focus on the essence, not just the surface. In the case of this product, the quality of the raw wool is its essence. It's not simply "a fabric made of wool" that makes it good; we believe that it becomes a good fabric with a pleasant texture precisely because we use carefully selected, ultrafine raw wool.
16.5 Micron, Ultrafine Raw Wool
We are particular about using ultrafine raw wool with a fiber fineness of 16.5 microns. This is to reduce the unique prickly sensation of wool and achieve a smooth texture. Furthermore, this raw wool meets the traceability requirements of the "ZQ Wool Standard," a global standard for environmental conservation and labor conditions.
"Yuragi-ito" (Fluctuating Yarn) Creates Texture and a Rustic Look
State of the yarn (Yuragi-ito)
What we particularly focused on in the manufacturing process was yarn making. "Yuragi-ito" (fluctuating yarn) is a meticulously crafted combination of four threads with different twists and directions. This highly undulating yarn creates the fabric's textured feel, mixed appearance, and rustic expression.
Bishu Fabric, Kojima Sewing
Sewing in Kojima
As a brand, what is non-negotiable is to convey the excellence of Japan. The fabric is produced in Bishu, a wool-producing region, and the sewing is done in the Kojima district of Okayama Prefecture, known as a denim-producing region. By combining the brand power of each region, we aim to communicate Japanese tradition and technology.
Three Charms of the Product
MAF WOOL DENIM styled for a sophisticated look
If I were to list three charms of MAF WOOL DENIM, they would be as follows: First, the luster and soft texture born from ultrafine raw wool. Second, the comfortable, non-sticky feel even in summer, thanks to wool's moisture-wicking properties. And third, its refined appearance, offering a denim style suitable for many coordinated looks.
Smooth and Comfortable Even in Summer
Denim is a material often avoided in summer due to its sticky feel. However, by leveraging the excellent moisture absorption and release properties of wool, MAF WOOL DENIM can be enjoyed comfortably even in summer. It offers a consistently smooth and comfortable wearing experience. For styling, you can enjoy an elegant denim look for sophisticated adult fashion, or incorporate it into business casual attire by pairing it with a jacket for business settings, reducing the casual feel.
Chosen by Both Men and Women
While we plan products for both men and women, many people actually choose them as unisex items. For those seeking quality and tranquility in their lives, it is chosen as sophisticated adult fashion due to its tangible quality and elegant appearance.
Customer Feedback: "Never Seen 100% Wool Denim Before"
Customers have told us, "I've never seen denim made from 100% wool. Its unique originality is fascinating."
A Spinning Manufacturer's Pride in Yarn Making
The most challenging part of the development was yarn making. Fabrics in this project, which involved so much effort, are unparalleled. To elegantly express the texture of denim, the yarn making process was repeatedly refined. This was also a point of pride for NIKKE as a spinning manufacturer.
Uncompromising Commitment to 100% Wool
They considered blending cotton to emphasize the denim-like appearance, but they remained committed to 100% wool to convey its originality and the benefits of wool.
Future Goals
Rather than stopping at denim, we plan to develop many more items in the future. We want to nurture this into a brand where people cherish and use high-quality, favorite items for a long time. We will continue to propose sophisticated coordination that can be a staple for people of all ages, from young to old.
To Our Readers
First, please feel it. That alone will surely tell you everything. In a world overflowing with countless things, we want you to encounter something you can truly cherish. If you do, it will undoubtedly become a wonderful item that you can love and use for a long time.
※Currently, ENGAWA STORE online store does not carry this product. It can be purchased at ENGAWA ASAKUSA.